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guide des acides

12 April 2023

The Guide to Acids

The Guide to Acids

Whether in peels or various treatments, acids prove to be very effective for achieving "new skin".

There are 3 types of acids that have varying properties.

The AHAs or alpha hydroxy acids

These are the famous fruit acids, those that are suitable for normal to combination skin. They are soluble in water. Among them, we find:

  • Citric acid extracted from lemon: anti-hyperpigmentation property.
  • Mandelic acid derived from bitter almonds: anti-aging, anti-imperfection properties.
  • Malic acid derived from apple: it brightens the complexion, fights against the first signs of aging, and reduces imperfections.
  • Glycolic acid from sugar cane: it effectively combats hyperpigmentation, aging, and even imperfections.
  • Lactic acid derived from milk fermentation: it brightens the complexion of sensitive skin.

In many peels, these acids are combined for multiplied effectiveness.

BHAs or Beta Hydroxy Acids

There is only one: salicylic acid. It is liposoluble, soluble in fat, which makes it effective on oily skin, for unclogging pores for example. It is also excellent for acne-prone skin.

PHA or Poly-Hydroxy Acid

Their action is gentler because their molecules are larger, making them perfectly suitable for sensitive skin.

  • Lactobionic acid: antioxidant and anti-aging.
  • Gluconic acid: helps the skin maintain its hydration while gently exfoliating.

Azelaic acid is considered to be special; it is a very gentle acid for the skin.

Medium to very deep peels

The TCA or trichloroacetic acid has a more abrasive action than the previous ones. They are considered medium peels, but this depends on the concentration. Indeed, beyond 20%, they must be administered by a physician.

They help combat wrinkles and fine lines, hyperpigmentation (age spots or sun spots), and scars (notably from acne).

Attention, they cause a phenomenon of skin peeling (it flakes).

 The choice of a peeling

There are two main selection criteria: pH and concentration.

It is important to know that the pH of the skin is 5.5. A peeling with a pH of less than 4.5 is considered acidic and will be more suitable for oily skin. Meanwhile, a peeling with a pH of more than 6 will be basic or alkaline and more suitable for oily skin.

Then we will also need to look at the concentration for a so-called "gentle" peeling:

  • Between 10 and 35% -depending on the acid of course- the exfoliation will be quite mild.
  • Between 35 and 50%, exfoliation will be moderate and will address skin irregularities more depending on the type of acid chosen.
  • Beyond 50%, the peeling becomes deep, must be performed by a doctor, and the wrinkles are significantly reduced.

We have a diverse range of peels based on your needs:

  • Against acne, the mandelic or glycolic peels from Simildiet can be effective.
  • To fight against wrinkles, the SAMA peeling from simildiet can be beneficial for you.
  • In case of hyperpigmentation, you can try the Yellow peel or the lightening peel.

 

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