Hyaluronic acid or retinol: how to choose?
In the jungle of anti-aging active ingredients, two stand out for their media presence, and on social networks, they are on everyone's lips: hyaluronic acid and retinol. These two active ingredients, essential to a well-structured facial skincare routine, have demonstrated their effectiveness, proven by scientific studies.
Although hyaluronic acid and retinol are both considered to have anti-aging properties, they have differences, advantages, and unique characteristics. Therefore, it can be difficult to distinguish between them and choose which one is best for your skin. Hyaluronic acid vs retinol: how to choose?
The benefits of hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid, naturally present in the dermis (the layers of skin between the epidermis and the hypodermis), is a strong anti-wrinkle and anti-aging agent.
It behaves like a sponge that soaks up water, thereby contributing to good skin hydration and giving it a smooth and youthful appearance. It can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water, which explains why sometimes its concentration is not extremely high, but it can still remain effective.
It is present in various treatments. cosmetics, creams, serums, masks, skin boosters and fillers, in various forms and at all prices.
L'AH is a natural active ingredient with multiple virtues:
- Moisturizing: HA is highly hygroscopic, which gives it a strong ability to attract and retain water molecules (H2O). Thus, HA ensures intense hydration of the skin, even in small quantities.
- Anti-aging: HA plumps the skin, effectively fills in wrinkles and dark circles.
- Non-allergenic: due to its natural origin in the human body, it does not irritate the skin, is very well tolerated, and is non-photosensitizing.
For what indications?
- Skin dryness, tightness, redness: cold and/or dry weather, prolonged sun exposure, frequent baths, very hard water, harsh soap, and atopic dermatitis can reduce the hydrolipidic film and dry out the skin.
- Fine lines and wrinkle prevention: hyaluronic acid creates a protective barrier against external aggressions and prevents dehydration. Hyaluronic acid hydrates the upper layers of the skin, thereby reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines caused by dehydration and facial expressions.
- Dull skin: dehydration leads to difficulties for the skin in defending itself against oxidative stress, which can dull the complexion. Hyaluronic acid strengthens the skin barrier, helping the skin defend itself against the harmful effects of UV rays, pollution, and particles that can tarnish its radiance.
The benefits of retinol
Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A; it is primarily found in topical form, essentially in serum or cream.
This vitamin significantly aids in the production and stimulation of collagen, a substance responsible for the firmness and elasticity of the skin. Moreover, it also plays a central role in the growth and maintenance of our cells' integrity as it is a regulator of gene expression.
For what indications?
- Cellular renewal: Retinol protects the skin surface, reduces oxidation, and combats free radicals.
- Wrinkle Reduction: Retinol promotes collagen production, an essential protein for maintaining skin firmness. By stimulating collagen production, retinol helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Additionally, its antioxidant properties prevent skin degradation caused by free radicals (pollution, UV rays, stress, cigarette...).
- Improvement of skin texture and acne prevention: It can help smooth the skin's texture by reducing irregularities, regulating sebum production, and promoting cell renewal. Additionally, retinol has a keratolytic action that facilitates the removal of dead cells from the surface of the skin due to its stimulating effect on cell renewal. This helps to unclog pores, refine skin grain, and prevent the formation of blackheads and comedones.
- Reduction of pigment spots: Retinol is also known for its brightening properties, which can help reduce brown spots and hyperpigmentation and diminish the marks left by skin imperfections. Its antioxidant action decreases the appearance of brown spots, and its ability to regulate melanocytes reduces the intensity of pigment spots on the surface of the skin. It is even possible to lessen dark circles under the eyes with a dedicated skincare product.
What disadvantages?
- Retinol should not be used every day; reactions such as redness, itching, a slight warming sensation, and peeling may occur in some individuals, particularly those with sensitive skin, following the use of products containing retinol.
- Retinol is photosensitizing, which means it makes the skin more sensitive to the harmful effects of the sun. Therefore, it is imperative to consistently apply sunscreen when using products containing retinol. This helps protect the skin from damage caused by UV rays and minimizes the risk of undesirable skin reactions. Additionally, its application is recommended in the evening so that it can work overnight and not be exposed to sunlight.
Hyaluronic acid vs retinol
In conclusion, the dilemma between the use of hyaluronic acid and retinol for skincare essentially depends on your individual concerns and specific goals regarding skin health. Retinol, regarded as a powerful and well-established active ingredient, is widely praised for its anti-aging properties. By stimulating cell renewal and increasing collagen production, it effectively addresses visible signs of aging, such as wrinkles and pigmentation spots. Meanwhile, hyaluronic acid, a molecule naturally present in the body, is renowned for its incredible ability to retain moisture. This quality makes it an exceptional moisturizer, helping to maintain the skin's elasticity and firmness while restoring its natural glow.
When used together, retinol and hyaluronic acid provide a comprehensive approach to skincare, combining the benefits of anti-aging and hydration. It is entirely possible to apply hyaluronic acid in the morning and retinol in the evening depending on your skin type.
To choose your treatment, be sure to try to use a fragrance-free product as much as possible and take into account the reviews.
However, it is important to note that the introduction of retinol into your skincare routine should be gradual to avoid irritation, and rigorous sun protection is essential due to its photosensitivity. By understanding the unique benefits of these two ingredients and adapting your beauty routine accordingly, you can maximize the benefits for your skin and maintain a radiant and healthy appearance in the long term.
